Thursday, April 24, 2008

As I am counting - after one year - my last days in Scotland, all kinds of memories and feelings pass through me.
I'm trying slowly to detach myself. I'm again about to move on to a new phase, and the change usually doesn't happen in a day. I need time to shift my focus.
The first part of this shifting is letting go - of places, people, habits. The invisible threads that link me to the life here need to get "loose" so that I can really leave. Not loose in the sense that I don't care about these things anymore, no. I still keep them close, but at the same time I'm creating a distance, and then this distance empowers them with a special meaning.
A year in the Highlands has made me, in a way, "tough" - or at least tougher than before. Working with Scots is a toughening experience, and don't take me wrong, please. One has to earn their friendship. They can measure you, ignore you, ridicule you, but they can also let you in their hearts and look at you as their equal. They are a bit of a "wild" people - maybe it has to do with the climate: they had to adjust to the rough weather, the harsh winds, the rain, the clouds. The reason I feel this way is perhaps that I came from the other extreme: the people in Portugal were so gentle, with their hearts "outside" and with the question in their eyes: how can I help you? This gentleness was one of the reasons I felt so much at home there.
The Scottish don't pamper you. In a way they make you scramble to your feet and you just do what you should be doing.
It's getting obvious that I've got mixed feelings about Scotland. It is a very beautiful country with interesting people. I'll never forget the sight of the green and brown hills all around, the grazing sheep, the loud cries of those huge seagulls as well as of the bagpipes, and the fresh "transparency" of the air. Still, I didn't feel at home. I was often thinking if I could live here on long term, and I reached the conclusion that perhaps Edinburgh would be the only place...
Up in the Highlands the weather is too cold for me. Yet I have to admit that my allergy not even once bothered me here!
And there are a few things which I wouldn't know had I not spent this past year here. Things that have become important and inspiring.
I owe to Scotland that I've got to know the books of the British writer, Salley Vickers. I borrowed them one by one from the local library. Reading them was a special experience. Her books - although they are very much different from one another - fuse the areas of art, religion, literature and psychology in an enchantingly subtle way. Publishers in Hungary should know about her!
I also owe to Scotland that I've discovered the music of Salsa Celtica. They are a dominantly Scottish band, playing an invigorating mixture of Celtic and Latin American music. Someone commented while listening to them that it is as if there were two different CDs palying at the same time. Well, I think they've got the perfect mixture, and I certainly wouldn't have survived the cold Scottish winter months without them.
And as a fresh "delicatesse", I'm just getting to know another Scottish band's music - they're called Lau. Guitar, fiddle and accordion. It carries you away, it's powerful, it's emotional, and you start to stamp your feet automatically.
Last but not least, I also owe to Scotland the newly found appreciation for my hometown and that the links which tie me to my family and friends have grown much stronger and more emotional.
It is in Scotland that I've learned to embrace the unpredictable turns of life. Making plans doesn't mean you'll be able to turn them to reality. It is perhaps here that I've learned that one should trust the unknown. Go with faith to the place where one feels one must go, even if not sure about what will be waiting there...

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Back to Edinburgh once more...

It seems Edinburgh's got the magic. After about half an hour in the Old Town I'm inspired and excited. Circling the streets and lanes with the cobbled stones, looking up at the many towered buildings, feeling the majesty of the Castle up on the hill and the enchantment of the small shops one after the other... A cold wind blows as Saturday's eve falls but I endure.
The wind today is even stronger, although later the spring sunshine warms up the city.
I have a tight schedule. First I'm heading towards the Holyrood Palace, because last time I had no time left to make a visit. Mary, Queen of Scots made it as her home in the 16th century. She said "In my end is my beginning", according to a quote on a bookmark I buy in the Palace's shop. She certainly had no easy life, and to the present day she remains an intriguing figure in history.
My plan to join the "Edinburgh Booklovers Tour" fails. I'm waiting at the appointed place at the appointed time but no one ever comes. So I remain unluckily uninformed about the places, facts and myths that connect to the city's famous writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott,
Conan Doyle, Robert L. Stevenson, J.K. Rowling. I feel disappointment but make a decision: now I have a good reason to return again in the future!
So what do I do instead? Spend time choosing CDs with the help of a well-informed salesman in a shop specialized in folk and world music. Wander around in the National Galleries of Scotland until I really have to sit down, my feet demand a break.
Then I feel hunger coming... Fortunately I remember from last evening that there are some very promising food stands near Princess Street. The sellers came from France and offer wonderfully smelling dishes. I choose one which is a mixture of potatoes, mushrooms, peppers, onion, cream and cheese. I think the name of the dish starts with a T, although I'm not sure. I eat it on a bench in the Princess Street Gardens in the sunshine, seagulls crying in the background. I'm in Edinburgh but the taste "transports" me to some small French town - if I were Joanne Harris I could start a brand new book right here.
As the crown on top of all I'm attending a concert later at St. Giles Cathedral. Sundays at Six, they call it, because there's one each Sunday. The musicians of the Edinburgh Academy this time, give me a satisfying musical experience.
Tomorrow morning I'll still have enough time to have coffee at the Elephant House and glance at the colorful site of the shops (one blue, the other green, still another orange).
Edinburgh, I'll keep you in my memory's special chest...!